Where we go when we have more to spend.
     

California
Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack
18 Virginia Ave @ Mission

Great prices, dingy-cool decor and a surprisingly original menu make Emmy’s worth several trips. Choose from a small but impressive wine list or cleanse your palate with a forty of Bud. Don’t skip the appetizers: We tried the Habañero dungeness crab with lemon polenta ($9), prosciutto with spiced apple chutney on toast ($9.50), frisee salad with generous chunks of seared ahi, scallops, prawns and lobster with a meyer lemon dressing ($11.50), and the chef’s pizza, which that night had goat cheese, gorgonzola and asparagus – all heavenly. For main courses, you’ll be just as happy with their more unique offerings – pan-fried branzino (striped seabass) with eggplant, tomato and pine nut caponata and salsa verde ($17.50), penne with black peppered mozzarella, marinara and arugula pesto ($12.50) – as with their delicious take on classic spaghetti and meatballs with fresh shaved parmesan ($9.50). From the short but exceptional list of desserts, we went for the sweet corn custard with blackberry sauce and a polenta ricotta fritter, and the super-rich peanut butter square with caramel sauce and Mitchell’s coffee ice cream – both were unexpectedly divine. Emmy’s doesn’t accept reservations, so get there early to avoid a long wait.

 

   American
Liberty Café
410 Cortland Ave @ Bennington

Liberty is all about cozy charm, from its small, homey dining room to the adorable bakery/wine cottage out back. If not exactly groundbreaking, the menu delivers delicious takes on familiar favorites with a fresh twist. Start with the arugula salad with fromage blanc and roasted red pepper vinaigrette ($8.50), then move on to the light, creamy and flavorful asparagus flan ($10) and braised pork belly with Brussels sprouts and thyme-infused maple syrup ($9). The Liberty is famous for its pot pies, both chicken and vegetable ($14.50), and for good reason – their flaky, buttery crusts and rich, saucy fillings taste homemade and make for perfect comfort food on a chilly night. Also worth a trip are the fall-off-the-bone-tender Moroccan braised short ribs with couscous, carrots and onions ($16) – the rich, savory sauce had hints of cinnamon, star anise and mint. And be sure to check out their daily pasta specials – ours featured pappardelle with butter, lemon, pinenuts, chives and shaved parmesan. If you still have room, desserts (all $7) include a decadent gianduja (hazelnut chocolate) pot de crème, a deliciously tart strawberry rhubarb pie and a key lime tart with whipped cream. Liberty also serves an excellent weekend brunch but, as with any local brunch place worth its salt, expect a long wait.
French
Café Chez Maman
803 Cortland @ Ellsworth

Now with three locations – on 17th Street in Potrero Hill, this second location in Bernal Heights and a new one on Union Street in Cow Hollow – Chez Maman features a very French staff and familiar favorites such as niçoise salads and croques monsieur and madame, but favorites include what have been called the best burgers ($9) in town (especially when smothered with Roquefort or goat cheese). Also feast on hearty gourmet salads – warm goat cheese with arugula, cipollini onions and balsamic vinaigrette ($8), frisee with poached egg, lardoons (salted fatty pork or bacon), and red wine vinaigrette ($9.50) – and panini – merguez (spicy sausage), onions, gruyere and aioli ($9), tuna with parmesan cheese and roasted peppers ($9), as well as their take on the quesadilla: choices include all kinds of meats and veggies with gruyere and crème fraiche ($10-13).
 
 

More fancier feasts
The Mission
Potrero Hill
The Tenderloin

Frugal feasts
Bernal Heights
The Mission
Potrero Hill
The Tenderloin

 
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